Free Cow Lovey Crochet Pattern: Granny Square Blanket

I love making crochet baby lovey blankets and this crocheted cow pattern must be one of my favorites. This crochet project combines the art of Amigurumi with the good ‘old fashioned’ granny square design. A perfect combo to create a crochet cow snuggler any baby will love to cuddle!

So if you are looking to make easy, yet adorable handmade gift for your little one, then this crochet cow blanket is just the pattern for you! This crochet lovey will also make a perfect baby shower gift, guaranteed to be a real hit with any new parent!

Why You Will Love this Pattern!

Quick and easy to make
All you need to know is basic stitches
Works great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn
Easy-to-follow instructions with step by step photos
Includes detailed video tutorials for extra help
Makes an adorable gift for your baby or a unique baby shower gift
I’m always happy to provide support with this pattern

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This cow crochet security blanket was another of my very popular patterns featured in our Mystery Amigurumi Crochet Along. If you would like to join us for our next crochet along, make sure to sign up for free.

Scroll down to view the full written pattern. Or purchase the ad-free printable PDF file on Etsy or Ravelry.

Table of Contents ▶

Why You Will Love this Pattern!
How to Crochet a Lovey for Beginners
Before You Get Started with this Cow Lovey Crochet Pattern
Pattern Notes
Yarn Requirements
Yarn Substitutes
Materials and Equipment
Pattern Abbreviations
Special Stitches
Video Tutorials
Step by Step Instructions
Frequently Asked Questions

How to Crochet a Lovey for Beginners

The crochet lovey is made up of two main parts – a small crochet animal and a crochet lovey blanket.
The crochet animal body parts are worked in continuous rounds so no need to slip stitch to join the rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
The crochet lovey blanket is usually worked in rounds starting from the middle, but some of my blanket patterns are worked in rows.
All stitches are worked in both loops unless stated otherwise.
When working on the crochet animal, always use a crochet hook at least one size smaller than the size recommended on the yarn label. This is to avoid large gaps and the stuffing showing.
The use of safety eyes or buttons poses a choking risk for children under the age of 3 therefore I recommend using embroidery instead.
Explore my YouTube channel for more Amigurumi tips and tricks.

Before You Get Started with this Cow Lovey Crochet Pattern

Pattern Notes

Skill level: intermediate

Finished size when using 3mm or C/2 hook for the body and 4mm or G/6 for the blanket:

blanket: 33 cm (13 inches) x 33 cm (13 inches) – just the right size for little hands
head height: 9 cm (3.5 inches)

Pattern Gauge

Amigurumi cow:

using 3 mm hook (C/2) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
flat crochet circle 2″ (5cm) in diameter = 6 rounds with 36 stitches in the last round

Lovey blanket:

using 4 mm hook (G/6) & light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
4″x 4″ (10cm x 10cm) = 12 clusters of 3x DC x 11 rounds

Yarn Requirements

This cow lovey crochet pattern will work great with the below yarns.

100% cotton yarn
100% acrylic yarn
blend of cotton/acrylic or cotton/bamboo
Sport weight yarn (4ply #2)
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
Yarn I used for this crochet lovey pattern:
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3)
- 51% cotton and 49% bamboo blend
- 2x skeins of white yarn | Coboo Lion Brand | color 100 | (100g/212m)
- 1x skein of black yarn | Coboo Lion Brand | color 152R | (100g/212m)
- 1x skein of pink yarn | Coboo Lion Brand | color 101A | (100g/212m)
- 1x skein of grey yarn | Coboo Lion Brand | color 149B | (100g/212m)
You can purchase the Coboo Lion Brand yarn from Lion Brand in US and LoveCrafts in

Yarn Substitutes

US Suppliers:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

100% cotton: Schachenmayr Pyramid Cotton
blend of cotton/acrylic: WeCrochet Comfy

Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):

100% cotton: WeCrochet Animation
blend of cotton/acrylic: Sirdar Stories DK
blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK

UK Suppliers:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2):

100% cotton: Scheepjes Catona
100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton
blend of cotton/acrylic: YarnArt Jeans

Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3):

100% cotton: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK
blend of cotton/acrylic: Paintbox Yarns Cotton Mix DK
blend of cotton/bamboo: Stylecraft Naturals Bamboo & Cotton DK

Materials and Equipment

Materials needed:

a long strand of black embroidery thread yarn for eye embroidery – 2x 50cm (20 inches)
polyester fibre fill

Crochet hook size:

If using Sport weight yarn (4ply yarn #2):

body – 2.5 mm crochet hook or B/1
blanket – 3.5 mm crochet hook or E/4

If using Light worsted weight yarn (DK yarn #3):

body – 3 mm crochet hook or C/2
blanket – 4 mm crochet hook or G/6

If using Worsted weight yarn (Aran yarn #4):

body – 3.5 mm crochet hook or E-4
blanket – 4.5mm crochet hook or #7

If you are a beginner, this ergonomic crochet hook set is just perfect for you! It comes in a stylish case and with other handy accessories such as stitch markers etc.

Are you a more experienced crocheter? Then you may want to treat yourself to a set of my favorite premium hooks. They are simply the best!

Other equipment needed:

scissors
tapestry needle/yarn needle
pins with large heads
stitch marker

Pattern Abbreviations

This cow lovey crochet pattern is written using standard US terms.

MR: magic ring/magic circle

ST: stitch

SC: single crochet stitch

HDC: half double crochet stitch

DC: double crochet stitch

CH: chain

STR CH: starting chain

CR SP: corner space

MD SP: middle space

SL ST: slip stitch

INC: increase = two single crochet stitches in the same stitch

INV DEC: invisible decrease

BLO: back loops only

BBO: back bumps only

FO: fasten off

INV FO: invisible fasten off

(…..) x 6: repeat the pattern inside the brackets by the given number (in this example, repeat the pattern in the brackets 6 times)

{…}: number shown inside these brackets equals the number of stitches at the end of each round

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Special Stitches

INV DEC = invisible decrease:

insert hook into the front loop of the next stitch
then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch
yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook (two loops left on the hook)
yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the hook to finish your invisible decrease

Video Tutorials

If it is your first time dipping your toes in the world of Amigurumi, then you may find these Amigurumi tutorials handy before you get started with this free crochet pattern.

And don’t forget to watch my step-by-step video tutorials for extra help with my free Amigurumi patterns. Many of my videos also have a left handed version available.

Need Help with this Amigurumi Pattern?

The fastest way to get help with this free crochet lovey pattern is to leave your question in the comment box at the bottom of this post.

Or join our Cuddly Stitches Community Facebook group to ask for support with this pattern. Many of the members have experience with my patterns and will be more than happy to help. You can also share your creations, chat to fellow Amigurumi makers or exchange tips and tricks.

Mix and Match Your Crochet Lovey

Do you like this cow lovey crochet pattern? Would like to mix and match the Amigurumi cow with a different crochet lovey blanket? Then you can explore my crochet snuggler patterns and pick from these adorable blankets:

Simple Square Lovey Blanket

8 Point Star Lovey Blanket

12 Point Star Lovey Blanket

Even Moss Stitch Lovey Blanket

Shell Border Lovey Blanket

Cow Lovey Crochet Pattern: Step by Step Instructions

You can find the free Amigurumi pattern below. I have included lots of photos to make it easier for you to follow the detailed instructions. Some sections of the pattern may also include step-by-step video tutorials needed for that specific part of the pattern.

Horns

Crochet hook:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: grey yarn

Construction: crochet from the top of the horn downwards

R1: MR – 5x SC into the ring {5} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet a magic ring for Amigurumi

R2: SC in next 2 STs, INC, SC in next 2 STs {6}

R3: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2 {8}

R4: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 2 {10}

R5: (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2 {12}

R6: SC in each ST around {12}

R7: (SC in next 5 STs, INC) x 2 {14}

FO leaving a long tail for sewing

Stuff well

Ears

Crochet hook:
- Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
- Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
- Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
  Yarn color: pink yarn for the inside of the ear / black yarn for the outside of the ear
  
  Construction: crochet the inside and outside of the ear as two separate circles; you will then crochet the circles together
  
  Inside of the ear (pink yarn) – Pic 1:
  
  R1: MR – 6x SC into the ring {6}
  
  R2: INC in each ST around {12}
  
  R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
  
  R4: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 6 {24}
  
  INV FO and weave the yarn end in
  
  Watch this video tutorial on How to fasten off in crochet: invisible finish
  
  Outside of the ear (black yarn) – Pic 2:
  
  R1: MR – 6x SC into the ring {6}
  
  R2: INC in each ST around {12}
  
  R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}
  
  R4: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 6 {24}
  
  R5: SC in each ST around and DO NOT FO {24}Don’t cut the yarn off as you will continue to crochet with it when joining the circles together – see next section of the pattern.

Mystery Crochet Along

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To complete the ear you will need to single crochet the two circles together:

place the inside and outside circle on the top of each other making sure that the wrong side of each circle is on the inside
start from where you finished with R5 of the black circle and insert your hook into the working loop
insert your hook into the next ST of the black circle (i.e. first ST of R5)
then insert your hook into any one ST of the pink circle, so you now have two STs on the hook (Pic 3)
SC these 2 STs together (Pic 4)
SC the corresponding STs of each circle together all the way round and FO {24} (Pic 5)
to shape the ears…fold the ear in half with the pink on the inside and then stitch one side together (about 2 stitches) and leave the other side open (Pic 6). Leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms

Crochet hook:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4
Yarn color: grey and white yarn

Construction: crochet from the bottom of the arm upwards

Start with grey yarn

R1: MR – 6x SC into the ring {6}

R2: INC in each ST around {12}

R3: (SC in next ST, INC) x 6 {18}

R4: SC in next ST, INC, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 5, SC in next ST {24}

R5: crochet this round loosely because it will be easier to crochet into the BBO in R6 – (SC in next 7 STs, INC) x 3 {27}

INV FO and weave the yarn tail in

R6: you will crochet this round into BBO – watch this video tutorial on How to single crochet into back bump
1. create a slip knot on your hook using the grey yarn
2. insert your hook into the back bump of the first ST in R5 and SC (this ST will count as your first ST in this round) (Pic 7)
3. SC all the way round in BBO {27} (Pic 8) – use slightly smaller hook if you find it difficult to insert it into the back bump. Alternatively, you can crochet into BLO instead of BBO.

R7: (SC in next 7 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {24} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet an invisible decrease

R8: SC in each ST around {24}

R9: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 3 STs {21}

Change yarn to white color

R10: SC in each ST around {21}

R11: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 3 {18}

Start stuffing the arm

R12-R13 (2 rounds): SC in each ST around {18}

R14: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 2, SC in next 2 STs {15}

R15: SC in each ST around {15}

R16: INV DEC, SC in next 13 STs {14}

R17: SC in each ST around {14}

R18: INV DEC, SC in next 12 STs {13}

Stop stuffing the arm

R19: SC in each ST around {13}

R20: INV DEC, SC in next 11 STs {12}

R21-R25 (5 rounds): SC in each ST around {12}

R26: SC the opening together to close the arm {5} – watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in a flat Amigurumi piece

FO and leave a long tail for sewing

Head

Crochet hook:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 2.5 mm or B/1
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 3 mm or C/2
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 3.5 mm or E-4

Yarn color: pink and white yarn

Construction: crochet from the front of the snout towards the back of the head

R1: Chain 6 STs {6} – watch this video tutorial on How to crochet Amigurumi around a foundation chain to help with R1-R4

R2:

SC in 5 STs starting from 2nd CH from the hook (go through back bump of each CH as well)
now work on the opposite side of the chain
INC in next ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last ST {12}

R3: INC in first ST, SC in next 3 STs, INC in next 3 STs, SC in next 3 STs, INC in last 2 STs {18}

R4: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next ST, INC) x 2 {24}

R5: (SC in next ST, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last ST {30}

R6: (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 3 STs, INC) x 2 {36}

R7: (SC in next 2 STs, INC) x 1, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 3, SC in next 3 STs, (SC in next 4 STs, INC) x 2, SC in last 2 STs {42}

R8-R10 (3 rounds): SC in each ST around {42}

R11: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 4, SC in next 2 STs, change yarn to white color, SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC {36}

R12: SC in next 4 STs, INC in next 8 STs, SC in next 4 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC, SC in next 6 STs, INC, SC in next 5 STs, INC {48}

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R13: SC in each ST around {48}

R14: SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 9 STs, INC, SC in next 7 STs, INC, SC in next 21 STs, INC {52}

R15: SC in each ST around {52}

R16: SC in next 8 STs, INC, SC in next 10 STs, INC, SC in next 8 STs, INC, SC in next 22 STs, INC {56}

R17-R22 (6 rounds): SC in each ST around {56}

R23: SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 6 STs, INV DEC) x 6, SC in next 3 STs {49}

R24: SC in each ST around {49}

R25: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 7 {42}

Start stuffing the head

R26: (SC in next 5 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {36}

R27: SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC, (SC in next 4 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next 2 STs {30}

R28: (SC in next 3 STs, INV DEC) x 6 {24}

R29: SC in next ST, INV DEC, (SC in next 2 STs, INV DEC) x 5, SC in next ST {18}

R30: (SC in next ST, INV DEC) x 6 {12}

R31: SC in each ST around {12}

Stuff well, close the hole using a tapestry needle and weave the yarn tail in.

Watch this video tutorial on How to close a hole in an Amigurumi piece

Blanket

Crochet hook – notice you need to use a bigger hook for the blanket:

Sport weight yarn (4ply #2): 3.5 mm or E/4
Light worsted weight yarn (DK #3): 4 mm or G/6
Worsted weight yarn (Aran #4): 4.5 mm or #7

Yarn color: white, pink and black yarn

Construction: crochet the blanket as a granny square starting from the middle

I will be using yellow yarn for the blanket photos but you should follow the below guide on color changes.

Color changes:

R1 to R11 – white yarn
R12 – pink yarn
R13 – black yarn
R14 – pink yarn
R15 to R16 – white yarn
R17 – pink yarn
R18 – black yarn
R19 to R20 – pink yarn

I have written the first few rounds without using abbreviations so it is easier for you to follow the pattern.

R1:

Magic ring – make sure to leave a very long tail for sewing the head to the blanket at assembly stage
1x single crochet into the ring and chain 2 – this will count as your first double crochet
2x double crochet into the ring, chain 2, (3x double crochet into the ring, chain 2) x 3 (Pic B2)
slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet (Pic B3)
{20 including the slip stitches}

R2:

1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2 – this will again count as your first double crochet in this round (Pic B5)
2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B7)
(3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space) x 3 (Pic B8)
slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet (Pic B9)
{32 including the slip stitches}
R3: 1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2 – this will again count as your first double crochet in this round
2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B12) 3x double crochet into the middle space (not the corner space) (Pic B13) (3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space, 3x double crochet into the next middle space) x 3
- slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet
- {44 including the slip stitches}
  R4:
  - 1x single crochet into the corner space and chain 2, 2x double crochet into the same corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space (Pic B17)
  - 3x double crochet into the middle space (not the corner space)
  - 3x double crochet into the next middle space (not the corner space) (Pic B19)
  - (3x double crochet into the next corner space, chain 2, 3x double crochet into the same corner space, 3x double crochet into the next 2 middle spaces) x 3
  - slip stitch into the top of your 1st, 2nd and 3rd double crochet
  - {56 including the slip stitches}I will now use abbreviations from R5 onwards so please refer to the list of abbreviations at the beginning of this pattern.
    But the pattern is quite simple and you should always end up with the below at the end of each round:
    - 3x DC, CH 2, 3 DC in each corner space
    - 3x DC in each middle space
      R5: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 3 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 3 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {68 incl SL STs}
      
      R6: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 4 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 4 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {80 incl SL STs}
      
      R7: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 5 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 5 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {92 incl SL STs}
      
      R8: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 6 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 6 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {104 incl SL STs}
      
      R9: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 7 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 7 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {116 incl SL STs}
      
      R10: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 8 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 8 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {128 incl SL STs}
      
      R11: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 9 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 9 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to pink color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {140 incl SL STs}R12: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 10 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 10 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to black color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {152 incl SL STs}

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R13: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 11 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 11 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to pink color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {164 incl SL STs}

R14: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 12 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 12 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to white color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {176 incl SL STs}

R15: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 13 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 13 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {188 incl SL STs}

R16: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 14 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 14 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to pink color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {200 incl SL STs}

R17: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 15 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 15 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to black color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {212 incl SL STs}

R18: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 16 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 16 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd DC, change yarn to pink color and SL ST into top of 3rd DC {224 incl SL STs}

R19: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 2, 2x DC into same CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 17 MD SPs, (3x DC into CR SP, CH 2, 3x DC into same CR SP, 3x DC into next 17 MD SPs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st, 2nd and 3rd DC {236 incl SL STs}

R20: 1x SC into CR SP, CH 1 (this will count as 1st HDC), 2x HDC into same CR SP, SC in next 60 STs, (3x HDC into CR SP, SC in next 60 STs) x 3, SL ST into top of 1st HDC and INV FO {240 incl SL ST}

Weave all yarn ends in but leave the tail from the magic ring for sewing the head to the blanket at assembly stage.

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How to Assemble Your Crochet Comforter

How to Attach the Horns

Pin the horns to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back first before sewing them on. I placed the horns between R17 and R22 of the head with 4 stitches in between. Stuff the horns more if needed while sewing them on.

How to Attach the Ears

Pin the ears to the head making sure they look symmetrical from the front, side and back first before sewing them on. I attached the ears to R19 and R20 of the head, just one stitch away from the horns.

Eyes & Nostrils Embroidery

Embroider the eyes using a long piece of black thread yarn as shown in the photo below. I embroidered the eyes between R12 and R16 of the head leaving 6 stitches in between the eyes. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider eyes on Amigurumi

To embroider the nostrils, use the same black yarn you used for crocheting your lovey. I embroidered the nostrils between R4 and R5 of the head leaving 3 stitches in between them. Watch this video tutorial on How to embroider nostrils on Amigurumi.

How to Attach the Head to the Blanket

Before attaching the head to the blanket, choose which way you would like the cow to face. I like to attach the head so that the animal is facing one of the corners of the blanket. Preferably you want the corner, where you connected the rounds, to be behind the animal.

I sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 2 circles (Pic A1). If you feel the head is too wobbly, you can sew the head to the blanket following a pattern of 3 circles so it is more steady. But once you sew the arms on they will also help to steady the head.

But don’t worry too much if you are finding it difficult to follow the assembly instructions below. You can attach the head the way you prefer.

First circle:

use the yarn tail you were left with after creating the magic ring when starting the blanket
thread your yarn needle with the yarn tail and pull it through the magic ring to the right side of the blanket
use a pin to mark the centre of the bottom of the head
pull the needle through the stitches around the pin and then pull it through all the stitches in the centre of the blanket’s magic ring (Pic A2)

Second circle:

Using the same yarn tail you used for the first circle, sew the head to R2 of the blanket. I normally go through the bottom of the double crochet stitches in R2. Weave the yarn

How to Attach the Arms

Pin the arms to the blanket right by the side of the head and sew them on securely. Weave the yarn tails in.

You have now finished your crochet security blanket! I hope you found my cow lovey crochet pattern easy to follow and enjoyed making it!

Did You Enjoy Making this Crochet Toy?

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Explore More of My Free Amigurumi Patterns

If you like this cow lovey crochet pattern, you may also love these patterns. Why don’t you give them a try?!

Free crochet bunny lovey pattern
Free crochet dinosaur pattern

Free crochet cow pattern

Free crochet pig pattern

Or browse through my collection of crochet lovey and rattle patterns and make something special for your baby. Or surprise your friends and family with a perfect gift for their baby!

Happy crocheting!

Frequently Asked Questions

Have a question? Why don’t you search for the answer in the FAQ below.

Can I use worsted weight yarn with your patterns?

Yes, absolutely. My crochet animal patterns work great with a variety of different yarns including worsted weight yarn. Your crochet toy will just be a bit bigger than specified.
However, I wouldn’t use worsted weight yarn for making my loveys as they could feel a bit bulky. I prefer using thinner yarn such as Sport yarn #2 of Light worsted yarn #3 for a nice cuddly feel.
Having said that, my lovey patterns will absolutely work with worsted weight yarn if that’s the type of yarn you prefer using. But bear in mind that your loveys will be a bit bigger than specified in this pattern.
To find out more about the best yarn for making crochet toys have a read of my Best Yarn for Amigurumi Crochet tutorial.

I need help with one of your patterns. Can you help?

I am very happy to help and provide support with any of my patterns. Visit my Contact page for different options on how to get in touch with me.

Can I share your patterns and tutorials on social media?

I would be very grateful if you could link to my patterns and tutorials on social media. But sharing of my actual written patterns on social media is strictly prohibited. For more details, have a read of my Copyright Policy.

Can I sell finished crochet toys I made using your patterns?

You may sell finished items that you made using my Amigurumi patterns, provided you credit me as the original designer and provide a link back to my blog.

How can I download your free patterns?

My free patterns are only available online on my blog and are not printable. If you would like to download a PDF version of my patterns then you can purchase them for a small fee from my Etsy store or Ravelry store.